I left early, as rain was forecast for the late afternoon – not something you want to experience at 2,400 meters altitude. Luckily, the morning was perfect: blue skies, sunshine and immediate mountain views near Innertkirchen, with waterfalls cascading down the rock faces.
Grimsel Pass as the perfect warm-up
Grimsel Pass turned out to be the ideal first pass of the day. Not overly technical, with wide lanes and flowing bends. Along the way, I passed several reservoirs and an impressive dam. The sky stayed grey and moody, but thankfully it remained dry. Here and there, mist hovered over the road – more like fine drizzle in cloud form.
This is a fantastic first Alpine pass if you’re still building confidence: clear lines, enough space to choose your trajectory, and stunning views without feeling overwhelmed.
Furka Pass: steep, narrow and legendary
Furka was a completely different story. Steeper gradients, narrower roads and that typical sense of exposure where the depth of the valley makes you hold your breath for a second. I was incredibly lucky with the traffic: despite Furka being extremely popular with motorcyclists and car enthusiasts, it was very quiet that day.
Much of that fame comes from the iconic Belvedere Hotel – an abandoned hotel sitting right in a hairpin bend with views over the glacier. I first spotted it sideways during the climb, and suddenly it was right there in front of me. I was the first motorcyclist to park up, but soon others arrived.
Instantly, that familiar biker camaraderie kicked in: “Where are you from?”, “Want me to take a photo?” Furka is challenging – and exactly because of that, unforgettable.
Gotthard Pass: floating curves and calm riding
Gotthard Pass felt wider and less technical than Furka, but the ride itself was absolutely spectacular. During the descent, you ride through curves that genuinely feel like they’re floating above the mountain ridges – almost like riding across bridges carved into the rock. It’s hard to describe, but visually breathtaking and incredibly satisfying to ride.
Important note: I deliberately chose the new Gotthard road, which has smooth asphalt and wide curves. The old Tremola route is fully cobblestoned and much more demanding – definitely one for experienced riders looking for an extra challenge (that’s not me… yet).
Towards Locarno, alongside wild mountain water
After the passes, the route widened as I headed towards Locarno. Still deep in the mountains, with rivers running high from the heavy rainfall of previous days. You could clearly see the aftermath of the storms: eroded riverbanks, mud, and water levels pushing close to bridges.
Still, after such an intense day in the mountains, it felt good to roll out on calmer roads – a moment to decompress and let the impressions sink in.
Locarno already feels Italian
Locarno almost makes you forget you’re still in Switzerland. Italian menus, Italian language, Mediterranean architecture. Fondue? Sadly nowhere to be found. But I certainly didn’t complain with an Aperol and a plate of tortellini prosciutto in front of me.
The only downside: Piazza Grande was completely under renovation. That will have to wait for another trip. Tomorrow’s plan: a short ride towards Lago Maggiore, then on to Lake Como, where I’ll stay for two nights – just at a different location.
Above all, today was about gratitude: that the passes were open, the weather cooperated, and I got to ride them in relatively quiet conditions.
Safe travels,
Cara from BikingWithC
