View over Lake Como with pastel houses and shimmering water

Motorcycling Lake Como: traffic, best riding sections & where to stay

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View over Lake Como with pastel houses and shimmering water

7/4/2024

Riding a motorcycle to Lake Como sounded like pure romance in my head: pastel-coloured villages, shimmering water, summer scents and winding lakeside roads. Reality? A mix of Italian chaos, tunnels, heat and a few truly beautiful stretches. In this blog, I bundle my two days around Lake Como into a practical guide, so you immediately know what’s worth riding, and what you’re better off skipping.

I arrived from Switzerland (Locarno) and rode through the Lake Como area before continuing on to Malgrate and later Bormio. The rides themselves weren’t very long, but they gave me a realistic picture of what riding around the lake is like in summer: busy, hot and sometimes chaotic, but with moments that make it all worthwhile.

In this blog, I share practical tips: which sections are the most enjoyable, where you need extra patience, what the local riding style is like and where I would personally stay if I returned.

Italian riding style: chaotic, busy but manageable

My first real encounter with Italian traffic felt immediately different from Switzerland. At the border, traffic backed up at a customs post where all vehicles were forced into two lanes. On a motorcycle, I managed to save some time using a side lane, though it wasn’t clearly signposted.

Once closer to Como, a few things became obvious:

  • indicators sometimes seem optional,
  • cars suddenly turn into parking spots or pull back onto the road,
  • traffic logic follows its own rules.

One car in front of me suddenly turned into a parking area without indicating, forcing me into a near full stop on my front brake. Moments like that demand full focus.

My tips for riding around Como:

  • Keep extra distance to allow margin for sudden manoeuvres.
  • Expect the unexpected: driveways, parking entrances, sudden stops.
  • Don’t let yourself get rushed: ride defensively, especially in heat and traffic.
  • In summer it easily exceeds 30°C: plan plenty of water and shade breaks.

Which parts of Lake Como are worth riding?

Not every part of Lake Como is equally enjoyable by motorcycle. This is how I experienced the different sections:

  • Around Como town – Beautiful to look at, frustrating to ride. Heavy traffic, narrow streets and frequent standstills. Riding here in the heat can be exhausting.

  • Eastern side of the lake (heading north) – Functional but uninspiring. Long tunnel sections dominate. Fine for covering distance, not for scenic riding.

  • Between the two ‘arms’ of the lake – By far my favourite section: rolling hills, constant lake views, pastel villages and much more atmosphere. Not technical, but pure holiday riding.

  • Hill roads above the lake – Sometimes narrow and twisty, but often worth it. Better views and usually much quieter than the lakeside roads.

The day I rode along the lake itself delivered exactly the image I had in mind: gentle curves, shaded streets between houses and almost constant views over the water. Not every memorable route needs hairpins.

If you want maximum enjoyment with minimal frustration, focus on:

  • the roads between the two arms of the lake,
  • selected hill routes above the lake,
  • and treat Como town as a destination only if you truly want to visit it, not as a fun riding road.

Dealing with traffic and heat around Como

In summer, Como can feel like an oven. During one ride, I was stuck in 30°C heat behind a truck wedged between two houses. Twenty minutes without movement. The building façade showed this clearly wasn’t the first time.

In moments like that, it’s easy to think: Why am I doing this? But a few smart choices make a big difference:

  • Ride outside peak hours: early morning or later in the evening.
  • Avoid tight schedules around Como: delays are the norm.
  • When stopped for a longer time, step off your bike and find shade.
  • Make sure your mesh or rain jacket is easy to ventilate: airflow is essential.

Where to stay at Lake Como with a motorcycle

Aperol with Lake Como in the background
Enjoying an Aperol with a view over Lake Como

During my stay, I chose hotels located slightly higher up on the hills above the lake. That usually means:

  • a short but twisty climb,
  • a quieter setting,
  • and better views.

One hotel offered covered parking with a barrier: a big plus when travelling solo by motorcycle. A glass elevator took me from the garage up to the hotel, with lake views along the way. Pool, terrace, Aperol in hand: instant holiday mode.

Another hotel had a hidden bonus: a small path behind the building led to a neighbouring hotel where an elevator brought you straight down to the lakeshore. There I found stone steps with flowing water, the perfect place to sit, cool down and breathe after a hot riding day.

What I look for in hotels around Lake Como:

  • Covered or secured parking (preferably with a barrier or garage)
  • A pool or lake access to cool off
  • Not directly on the busiest roads
  • A bar or restaurant within walking distance, so you don’t have to ride again in the evening

Is Lake Como a destination or a stopover?

Honestly? I see Lake Como more as a stopover than as a main motorcycle destination. It’s beautiful to soak up the atmosphere: a cocktail with lake views, fireworks over the water, a swim in the pool, a walk to a hidden terrace…

But for pure riding pleasure, you’ll find more joy elsewhere: Alpine passes, quieter mountain regions or further on towards Bormio and Stelvio. For me, Lake Como is:

  • a place to arrive and unwind,
  • where you accept some chaos for the views,
  • before continuing towards roads that feel truly made for motorcycling.

In short: if you plan to ride around Lake Como by motorcycle, plan smart. Pick the best sections, account for traffic and heat, and use the region as a place to enjoy the atmosphere, not as a technical riding paradise.

Travelling between the Alps (Grimsel, Furka, Gotthard) and later Stelvio or Gavia? Then Lake Como makes a perfect one- or two-night stop. A place for Aperol, views and a refreshing swim, before heading back into the mountains with renewed energy.

Safe travels,

Cara from BikingWithC

Good to know when riding around Lake Como

  • Traffic: around Como and major towns, summer traffic can be intense. Plan extra time and patience.
  • Tunnels: some lake sections consist mostly of tunnels: practical for transit, less scenic.
  • Heat: 30°C in traffic jams is common. Hydrate well and plan shade breaks.
  • Parking: choose hotels with covered or secured parking, especially if travelling solo.
  • Best riding experience: focus on the roads between the two lake arms and hillside routes.

All the answers you are looking for

  • Yes, with nuance. The scenery is stunning, but some sections are busy and dominated by tunnels. I recommend focusing on the roads between the two arms of the lake and hillside routes, and treating the rest as functional connections rather than pure riding enjoyment.

  • Stay calm and allow extra time. Como is busy, narrow and often gridlocked. Ride outside peak hours, keep extra distance and step off your bike into the shade during long standstills. It’s okay to ‘get through it’ rather than trying to enjoy it.

  • I prefer hotels slightly above the lake: quieter, often better views and usually better parking options. Covered or secured parking is a must for me, especially when travelling solo.

Cara Roggemans

About Cara

I’m Cara Roggemans, founder of BikingWithC, motorcycle lover and travel addict. I’ve done two solo motorcycle trips so far and countless shorter rides and day trips through Belgium, the Netherlands, Germany, France, Switzerland, Austria and Italy. With BikingWithC I share honest experiences, tips and stories from the road. Everything you read is based on my own rides, tests and on-the-road adventures.

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