Stelvio Pass on a motorcycle: panic, a fall, but still pushing through
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7/8/2024
Today was the day: Stelvio. The most famous mountain pass in Europe. For some riders a dream, for me today a mix of pride, tears and pure panic. But I made it. And I’m so glad I dared to do it alone.
Because the weather would only improve around midday, I started with a slow breakfast at the hotel. And what a breakfast: several types of chocolate, fresh muffins, pancakes… all served in a beautiful dining room. The contrast with what was still to come could not have been bigger.
While I was sitting there, I could feel the tension building. I knew: today won’t be a ‘fun mountain pass’, but a mental and physical test. I’ll never forget this hotel. I’ll definitely come back here one day with my boyfriend – hopefully with a lot less stress in my body.
The climb: 'I made it… or did I?'
The ascent from the Bormio side went smoother than expected. Narrow tunnels, tight hairpins and steep rock walls, but it all still felt manageable. I had a good rhythm, looked well through the corners and kept my line.
At the top of the pass I genuinely thought I had made it. I parked the bike, looked around and thought: okay, that was it. Until I realised I was only halfway. The side from all the iconic photos – that endless wall of hairpins – that was the side I still had to ride. And downhill.
Panic in hairpin 3
From the viewpoint I saw the entire northern wall below me: traffic, steep drop-offs, and 48 hairpins that suddenly felt very real. A small panic attack kicked in. The first two corners went fine, but in hairpin 3 things went wrong.
Because of heavy oncoming traffic I couldn’t take the wide line. I went too tight on the inside, lost my line and suddenly I was down: head first, rolling a bit further. Luckily the fall wasn’t hard – no injuries – but mentally I was completely done.
Another motorcyclist stopped immediately. He lifted my bike, checked if I was okay and gave a few clear, simple tips. But most importantly: he gave me courage. Without him I would probably have stayed there doubting. I was so grateful. Moments like this are why I love the motorcycle community: you’re never truly alone.
We keep going
Fear at the foot of Stelvio when I saw this on the GPS
The rest of the descent was one long chain of stress. Counting down bend after bend and hoping I would make it down without another mistake. Enjoying it wasn’t an option anymore. My world became very small: eyes on where I wanted to go, picking the right gear, not panicking.
Down in a small roadside restaurant everything finally hit me. When I called my boyfriend, the tears came immediately. He had warned me that Stelvio wasn’t the easiest choice for a solo rider, and I felt guilty for going anyway.
But I also felt proud. I did it. It wasn’t pretty, it wasn’t perfect, it wasn’t Instagram-worthy – but I made it down. Ride Stelvio again? Not for me. Once was enough.
What I learned about riding hairpin bends
Stelvio taught me more than any training ever has. A few things I always take with me now on other passes:
Look far through the corner: not at the asphalt in front of you, but at the point where you want to go. Especially on hairpins this brings calm and stability.
Brake before the corner, not in it: choose your speed and gear early. In the corner itself, only very light rear brake if needed.
Choose your line consciously: I usually start wider to give myself more space. Especially on steep passes (like Stelvio) that extra margin helps a lot.
Keep distance from others: don’t let faster riders push you. Let them pass so you can keep your own pace.
Stop if it becomes mentally too much: stepping off the bike, breathing and watching others take the corner can rebuild confidence.
These tips won’t make you a perfect mountain rider, but they will help you ride with more calm and awareness – especially if, like me, you sometimes struggle with mountain anxiety.
Bolzano and the first Dolomites in sight
Reached the top of Stelvio… or so I thought
After Stelvio I mostly wanted the rest of the ride ‘over with’. My next destination was Selva, my first stop in the Dolomites. But first: getting through and around Bolzano – not exactly the quietest route.
Due to construction and a new roundabout that wasn’t on my GPS yet, I kept circling. Twenty minutes in heavy traffic was the last thing I still had energy for. But then, suddenly, after all the concrete and chaos, they appeared: the first Dolomite peaks. Sun, fresh air and those iconic rugged rock formations.
At that moment I felt it clearly: this is where I’ll breathe again. Where Stelvio was pure survival, the Dolomites promised flow, space and beauty.
Final obstacle: the hotel parking
At the hotel in Selva one last challenge awaited me: a steep spiral parking ramp going down. Today? Absolutely not. But there was no alternative. In the end it was nothing compared to Stelvio, but mentally I was finished.
I rolled down slowly, parked the bike and made one decision: I’m not leaving this hotel tonight. I enjoyed the pool next to my room and later: rosé, San Pellegrino, roast beef and tiramisu.
Tomorrow I’ll ride deeper into the Dolomites, knowing it’s the last real mountain day of this trip. My heart isn’t ready to say goodbye, but my body knows it’s almost time to go home.
Safe travels,
Cara from BikingWithC
Good to know if you want to ride Stelvio
Timing & traffic
Ride outside peak season (July–August) or start very early.
Avoid midday: lots of buses, cars and cyclists.
Check beforehand whether the pass is open and whether any events are planned.
Preparation
Ride other mountain passes first to build experience.
Make sure your brakes, tyres and clutch are in top condition.
Plan Stelvio as the main focus of the day, not as an extra after a long ride.
Riding technique & safety
Look far through the corner and focus on your exit point, not the drop.
Brake before the turn and choose a suitable low gear.
Use your rear brake for small adjustments; avoid braking hard with the front in the corner.
Let faster riders pass calmly and follow your own pace.
Mental
It’s okay to stop, breathe and even turn around.
You have nothing to prove: no pass is worth pushing beyond your limits.
All the answers you are looking for
For me, Stelvio is without doubt one of the most challenging mountain passes in Europe. The 48 hairpins on the north side require technique, focus and patience, especially in traffic. It’s not a route to race, but one to ride with respect. My advice: start early, take your time and let ego-driven riders pass. The views are unforgettable.
Honestly? No, not as a first pass. I’d start with wide, more predictable passes (for example in Switzerland or the Vosges) where you have fewer hairpins and less pressure. Stelvio can be a goal later, once you’re confident with braking, looking and shifting in the mountains.
Fear is normal, especially when riding solo. It helps to stop, step off the bike and breathe. Drink water, watch how others take the corner and decide calmly what to do next. Don’t force anything and ask other riders for help: most will gladly support you.
It’s a huge hit to your confidence, but it happens more often than people admit. It doesn’t have to end your ride. First check yourself (pain? dizziness?). Then check your bike (brakes, levers, pegs, mirrors). Take a moment to breathe. And remember: one fall does *not* make you a bad rider. Stelvio taught me that even experienced riders lose control there.
About Cara
I’m Cara Roggemans, founder of BikingWithC, motorcycle lover and travel addict. I’ve done two solo motorcycle trips so far and countless shorter rides and day trips through Belgium, the Netherlands, Germany, France, Switzerland, Austria and Italy. With BikingWithC I share honest experiences, tips and stories from the road. Everything you read is based on my own rides, tests and on-the-road adventures.
Some links are affiliate links. I may earn a small commission with no extra cost to you. Recommendations are always based on my own experience or thorough research.
